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The number one, most asked question that I receive about water features is "How do I build a waterfall?" The first advice I give is to visit natural waterfalls or at least look at photos. Don't try to memorize just how they look...just get a general idea how the water flows around and over the rocks. The design of your falls will depend on topography, pump and pipe size, length of water flow from pump to falls, pond size and possibly other site-specific factors. If your pond is just 4' x 6', you certainly don't want a large, three foot wide falls - keep the elements of your water feature in scale. One of the most common mistakes results from the desire for a tall waterfall at a level building site...large amounts of soil are imported to build the falls up to a three or four foot height. Yes, you will achieve a dramatic waterfall, but the total effect will look more like an out of place volcano. A falls of just two feet will produce a very satisfactory effect both visually and audibly. On a level site, with an "average" size pond of 11' x 16', the amount of soil needed to surround the biological filter and create the berm is just about equal to the amount of soil excavated from the pond...it works out quite well. To further enhance or enlarge the berm, you may want to import a little more soil, large boulders or other features. If you are working on a slope, you have the option of placing the biological filter (waterfall source) uphill from the pond and creating a series of cascading waterfalls. This is how I built my falls, described in the photo essay here: http://clearwaterlandscapes.com/pondphotos.htm It was definitely an exercise in visualization to determine exactly how the water would flow down the falls. I made a slight underestimation of the total flow and could have widened the falls somewhat, but the effect is very acceptable. Even on a level site, it's a good design strategy to place the falls six to eight feet from the pond. This will create a short stream to the pond. Be sure to use a wide EPDM rubber liner under the falls and/or stream...this will allow for twists and turns in the course of the water and also contain splashing. A ten foot wide stream liner is recommended. Underlayment under the falls and stream liners is usually not required. When your excavation is complete for the falls, and liner is in place, add your stone. Don't be in a hurry - try several (or many) combinations and visualize how the water will flow. When satisfied with your arrangement, use black waterfall foam to direct the water over the stone instead of under it. That is, stone that is directly in contact with the liner should sit on a bed of foam so the water goes around or over the stone instead of underneath it. Caution - the foam expands greatly...don't use too much! Though it requires some creativity and patience, building a waterfall is extremely satisfying. Though you should give some time to preliminary research, you'll learn most by actually building your water feature - just do it! You'll find that your water garden is the most relaxing and enjoyable part of your yard. 15,000 Mb Hosting For $4.95/mo. - 4.95 web hosting, Free domain registration! Free setup and online website builder included. Burn The Fat Feed The Muscle. - Diet & Weight Loss Secrets of Bodybuilders and Fitness Models: #1 Best Selling Diet & Fitness E-Book In Internet History! Article Index: | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 |
More Articles:1. How to Grow Japanese Red Maple Trees from Seed By Michael McGroarty Most Japanese Maple seeds ripen in the fall. Watch the tree and wait for the seeds to turn brown. The seeds are ready to be harvested when they are brown and can be easily removed from the tree.The seeds are attached to a wing, it’s best to break the wing off before storing or planting the seeds. Japanese Maple seeds have a very hard outer coating as do many ornamental plants. Under natural conditions the seeds would have to be on the ground for almost two years before they would germinate. Al… 2. Amaryllis Amaryllis How Does Your Garden Grow? "Organically, of Course!" By Marilyn Jansen Her First GardensHer imagination would take her to faraway places where ancient gardens grew, outside castles in England or country farms around the world. She had no idea, when she began, about soil and water, or how to plan. She just got out there into the garden. Her soil was sandy, it had little nutrients; but she was more concerned with the design of her rows. She made the most unusual trenches that swirled in river-like forms and she imagined this is how a garden is planted. She placed t… 3. Ship Ahoy! The Nautical Touch in Your Outdoor Living Space By Debbie Rodgers Would you rather be sailing or are you strictly a shore bird? Whether you're land-locked or seaside, you can create a nautical look in your outdoor living space by following a few easy principles. You'll find that even landlubbers can answer the siren song of the sea.Although any outside space can be adapted to this motif, wooden decks are particularly suitable. And if you can manage to install a water feature so that the deck overhangs it, you'll increase the "on-board" feel. Be sure to inclu… 4. Butterfly House in the Flower Garden By Sandra Wilson Whenever you decide to look for a butterfly house for your flower garden, you first have to determine what it is you actually want. A search for butterfly houses will yield two different types. There is the type of butterfly house that contains butterflies and their nectar plants. These type of butterfly houses are actually structures created for the specific reason of providing a safe and enclosed space in which to study the butterflies.It can vary from a playpen-size for individual study … |
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